Thailand is a land of contrasts. The bustling, chaotic, and fast paced metropolis of Bangkok often seems a million miles away from the peaceful, easy going countryside. Wealthy businessmen cruise around in luxury European cars alongside those risking their lives in the pollution and traffic on bike, and palatial, air conditioned shopping malls tower above street side flea markets. Thailand is indeed many different places to many different people, but there is something that all sides of the country share – a love of good, simple food.

Good food in Thailand is not a privilege of the elite. Ask anyone, rich or poor, where the best food can be found and you’ll always get the same answer – on the street.

In part one of this series on Thai street food, we’ll be looking at some of the most common stalls involving rice.

Khao Raad Geng – Rice with Curry

Thai Curry and Rice Stall by NeilsPhotography (Flickr)

Like all curries, those in Thailand taste better when they’ve been left bubbling for a while. Street vendors know this too well so the curry stall will have rows of cauldrons, each with a different variety of Thai curry. As they’re all cooked in advance, there’s no way they can tone down the spice for the delicate western mouths so prepare for a taste of really authentic Thai food!

A meal at one of these stalls is ordered by selected 1, 2 or 3 types of curry from the counter, which will be ladled onto a generous helping of Thai rice. These stalls are particularly convenient for visitors as food can be ordered almost entirely using the medium of mime! If the vendor’s smiling to herself while serving your curry, it probably means you’ve asked for something incredibly spicy!

Khao Man Gai/Khao Kaa Moo – Rice with Boiled Chicken/ Rice with Pork

Boiled Chicken with Rice Stall

Rice and meat. It seems so simple and unadventurous that most tourists ignore this national favourite and opt for something green or red instead. However, as with many things in life, sometimes the simplest things are also the best. The rice is steamed in a stock of the meat, and balance of flavours between the succulent meat, the spicy sauce and the soft, slightly meaty rice are near perfection when done well. People will travel for miles to get a good Khao Man Gai!

The ‘meat and rice’ stalls can be spotted by looking for carts with single large cauldrons of broth in the middle and whole, boiled chickens hanging in glass cabinets (hanging cooked pork for the pork variety). You’ll be able to hear the sound of rapid chopping as small pieces of meat are expertly sliced with an enormous cleaver.

The choice at these stalls is pretty simple. Boiled chicken, fried chicken, pork leg, or crispy pork set atop a mound of rice with a bowl of broth on the side. With the chicken you’ll get a chunk of boiled chicken blood as a tasty extra which you don’t have to eat, although I’ll promise you it is pretty good!

Although just a small selection of the variety of food on the streets of Thailand, I hope this article can help inspire confidence to seek out and try some of the food that fuels the soul of Thailand and it’s people. Good luck and happy eating!

Ahaarn Dtaam Sang – Food Made to Order

By oksidor (Flickr)

These stalls can be easily recognised by a large display of fresh meat, fish and vegetables on the front of the cart. There will be a skilled Thai chef working the wok and the constant clinking sound of utensil against pan. Look out for a periodic fireball shooting up from the stall as one of the popular ‘Fai Daeng’ (red fire) dishes are prepared for hungry customers. The dining experience is enhanced further if you can find a seat with a view of the wok; you’ll find out the Thai meaning of Fast Food!

If you’re eating here, I recommend the classic fried rice (Khao Pad) with pork (Moo), chicken (Gai) or shrimp (Goong). Ask for a scrambled egg to go on top and eat with a little chilli sauce and feshly squeezed lime. Another favourite is the devilishly spicy stir-fried pork with holy basil. If you’re in a group try eating banquet style (gap khao) and order Tom Yam Taley Nam Khon (Spicy Tom Yam Soup), Pad Pak Bung Fai Daeng (stir-fried ‘red fire’ morning glory) and Gai Pad Med Mamuang Him Mapaan (stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts).

A Thai Demon Giant Guard

A little known fact to impress your friends – The longest place name in the world is……… Bangkok.

‘Rubbish!’ I hear you proclaim, but the real name of the ‘Big Mango’, is:

Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Yuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Phiman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit. Roughly translated, it reads:

The city of angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarma.

With a name like that, you could be forgiven for believing that Bangkok is the nearest thing to Nirvana on Earth and in so many ways it is a really great city to visit. But as we all know, every silver lining has it’s fair share of cloud and the City of Angels has a few demons lurking around that the unsuspecting traveller should be aware of. Here are my tips for making sure the only sour taste you experience is the Tom Yam soup!

1. There is no such thing as a friendly stranger.

Repeat this sentence many times! Thais are undoubtedly one of the friendliest, kind hearted peoples around. The world famous smile is one of the things which makes a trip to Thailand so magical, and often the most enduring memories of Thailand are of the interactions with the people. That being said though, Thai people are also naturally quite shy and wouldn’t dream of ‘disturbing’ someone going about their own business.

The classic scam here is that a random, oh-so-friendly and charming man (or woman) will find some reason to ‘randomly’ start a conversation in the street. Sometimes they will be standing in your way, and then apologise profusely and start up a conversation with a line like ‘How long have been in Bangkok?’. Another one which almost everyone falls for at least once is that they will be standing outside one of the major tourist attractions. They will be so helpful in telling you that the Grand Palace, or wherever you’re headed, is closed today, or that you’re not appropriately dressed for the temple you’re visiting and won’t be allowed in. Having broken the ice they will then helpfully inform you that they know of another place where you can go. They will often even offer to take you there personally in a Tuk Tuk. The reality is that these people are all con men. They will take you to a tailor’s shop or gem shop owned by their ‘brother’ and pressure you as your new best friend whose ‘gone out of his way to help you’ into buying overpriced and poor quality suits or gemstones. Ignore everyone who approaches you randomly in street – No exceptions.

2. Tuk Tuks are for fun, not transportation.

Riding in one of these colourful, three wheeled mirth mobiles is something everyone should experience. The noise, the rush of wind, and the fact that you can take short-cuts like those of a mini in The Italian Job makes you feel mischievous to the max, so we can perhaps forgive the drivers for being more than a bit off straight and narrow. With a wink and a smile, they will take you in precisely the opposite direction to where you want to go, usually to somewhere ‘much better’ like a tailor’s shop or a gem shop (you can see the theme here).

A lot of the time the Tuk Tuk drivers get petrol coupons from the shop owners for delivering customers, so they are quite happy if you go into the shop, show a bit of interest in the goods and then politely leave. Some people have had great days touring the city for free like this, but you need to exercise caution that you don’t end up being pressured into buying something. If you want to actually go somewhere, use a Taxi, skytrain or river boat.

3. Taxis are required by law to use the metre.

Any taxi that refuses to use the metre is over-charging you, fact, and I would recommend that you get out and find another one. It is often difficult to find a reputable driver near the more major tourist attractions, but it’s always worth walking for 5 minutes and then flagging one down on the road. Carry a map with you which has both Thai and English place names as most taxi drivers will not know English, and the pronunciation of Thai words is so far away from the way they are written in English that they are unlikely to understand you anyway. An example is Victory Monument, one of the major transport hubs of Bangkok. The majority of Thais won’t have a clue if you start asking them where ‘Victory Monument’ is as in Thai they call it ‘Anusawari Chai Samoraphum’.

4. Smile, and slow down.

Thai people are always laughing and smiling. That’s not to say that they’re always happy and relaxed, just always laughing and smiling. Confused? Thais have an angry smile, an upset smile, a polite smile, an embarrassed smile, a nervous smile, an unscrupulous smile and many more. They are almost all accompanied with a type of laugh also.

Time is also not such a big deal in Thailand, and the notion of doing something urgently, or in a hurry just doesn’t exist. This is one of things that makes it such a good place for a holiday, but on occasions it can be infuriating for the uninitiated westerner trying to sort out a problem. If you get visibly irate and start making demands you’ll likely be met with smiles and laughter all round and nothing will get solved. Complain with a laugh and a smile and watch everyone go out of their way to fix it as soon as they can.

5. Prices – negotiate!

With the exception of food, all prices in a market can be haggled over. Before you attempt this, reread the previous section about smiling and laughing. One of the biggest mistakes I see tourists make when bartering is to appear offended or disappointed with a price offered. Shopping is a social pastime and haggling over the price is supposed to be a fun part of it. The best way to do this is to imagine you’re haggling with your best mate instead of a shopkeeper who you’ve never met and who might be trying to rip you off. Plenty of laughing, smiling, jokey compliments to the seller, and whiny pleading usually get the best price. Learn a few choice phrases in Thai to make the vendor laugh and you’ll be well on your way to a suitcase full of bargains!

Bangkok is an excellent place to visit as a tourist and it really does deserve it’s name, the City of Angels. It’s not perfect though, and almost everyone gets had at least once on any visit; I still have the overpriced suit and cheap gemstones to prove it.  I often fondly reminisce about my first trip to Bangkok and laugh and smile about my naive experiences. I’ll leave you to guess what type of a smile and laugh it is!

Any other tips, please let us know in the comments.

Sometimes beauty can come from the most unlikely of places and we have to look no further than Picasso, The Elephant man and most of The Rolling Stones to see that sometimes, even the ugliest things on the outside can have a special place in our hearts.

Bangkok is a perfect example of a city which I know I should hate, especially as a lover of mountains and fresh air, but somehow, after getting over the warts on the surface, the soul of the City of Angels has won me over and there’s nowhere I’d rather be.

Here are four things about Bangkok which you should hate, but you just can’t help loving:

1. The Pavements (sidewalks)
   
   

   One of Bangkok's street elephants outside a restaurant. (Photo by Szymon Kochanski)

   Definitely not suitable for wheelchairs, Bangkok’s pavements are full of obstacles. Nowhere in the world will you have to watch out for massive holes deep enough to swallow a man, motorbikes taking a shortcut, whole families of stray dogs and fully grown elephants! Such obstacles should be frustrating, but in reality they are exciting and make you feel alive. Just watch where you step if you’re walking behind one of the 500 or so urban elephants! The pavements are also home to some of the best food in the world from street vendors and makeshift restaurants with plastic stools. In the evenings whole streets are turned into dense markets packed with people buying and selling all kinds of goods imaginable. If you’re trying to get somewhere it’s a nightmare, but if you’ve got time to take it all in, a simple walk down the street can be a truly unforgettable experience.

2. The Roads
   
   

   Bangkok Roads - Fast and Crazy but with Smiles all round!

   Driving in Bangkok is a test of brinkmanship. If you’re used to the polite, Western style of driving you might be better off closing your eyes when navigating the jammed streets of central Bangkok. The main style of driving here is ‘every car, motorcycle, bus and 22 wheeled truck  for itself.’  Buses never stop and instead just slow down, sometimes 3 or 4 lanes away from the pavement,  to let passengers on or off. Crossing the roads in Bangkok requires a special skill which those who remember the old computer game ‘Frogger’ will have mastered – wait for the gaps in the traffic to line themselves up, time it right then close your eyes and run! This may sound like a nightmare of stress and danger, but look closely and through the madness, the soul of Bangkok starts to make itself seen. Despite such conditions, road-rage is non-existent; the faces of the drivers are pictures of calm. Laughter and smiles are plentiful as crowds of people sprint across the road, narrowly escaping being injured by the 3 lanes of traffic.

3. Thai Time-keeping
   
   

   One of the few public clocks in Bangkok (Photo by Travelinman43 - Flickr)

   One thing you may notice as you walk around the metropolis of Bangkok, is an absence of clocks. In Western cities you only need to turn your head and you can see the time being proudly displayed. The main reason for this lack of time is that time is simply not that important here. It is quite common for Thai friends to be 2 or 3 hours late when meeting each other in shopping malls and Thai people rarely book more than a day or two in advance for anything. If you are taking part in any day organised by Thais don’t even bother asking for a schedule, and if you are lucky enough to get one don’t expect it to be any kind of indication of how the day will turn out. This is undoubtedly infuriating for time-obsessed Englishmen like myself, but after being broken down by many years of poor time-keeping, part of this approach to punctuality (though still not all) begins to make sense. By living your life less governed by time, there is a lot less to worry about and get stressed about. Getting stuck in a traffic jam isn’t such a problem. You don’t need to miss lunch if you’ve got somewhere to be, and if your 2 or 3 hours late for a party it’s no problem – you’ll still be there before most people!

4. Tuk-Tuks
   
   

   An Iconic Thai Tuk Tuk (Photo by Nokan)

   These three-wheeled, motorised chariots are an icon of Thailand, and a favourite of tourists. Their gurgling, 2-stroke engines give them their name and their drivers are almost always charming, charismatic chaps who claim that they are faster and cheaper than their four-wheeled, air conditioned counterparts. In reality, their lack of a meter and the fast-talking, ever-so-friendly man at the controls means they are always more expensive, and their insistence on taking you to everywhere in Bangkok except where you want to go means they take much longer. As frustrating an experience as it can be, however, I challenge anyone not to be grinning like a mischievous schoolboy as you race the wrong way down one-way streets towards yet another tailors or gem shop. Get in one knowing you’ll be taken in the wrong direction and charmed into buying an overpriced suit and you’ll have a great time!

Fly over the traffic in the Sky-train (photo by GAry.photography)

Everyone hates traffic, and there’s no traffic in the world as bad as in Bangkok. It is not unusual to spend an hour travelling just 20 – 30 metres in Bangkok’s evening rush hour and if you only have a day or two in Bangkok, the difference between enjoyment and frustration can be just a bad traffic jam.

Thankfully, there is a way round this time-wasting trip spoiler – the air-conditioned, clean Bangkok sky-train. It is both cheap and efficient and with good access to both shopping districts and tourist attractions, you need never risk getting ripped off by a tuk-tuk or taxi again. Here are a few nice little trips you can do without the need of taxis or buses.­

1. Siam Square Shopping District

If shopping’s your thing, there aren’t many places in the world better than the mega-malls around Siam sky-train station. For designer labels and luxury sports cars, try Siam Paragon or to find something a bit different and trendy, it’s got to be Siam Centre or the outdoor Siam Square. If bargain hunting is your thing then head, with your bartering hat, straight to MBK. Even if you don’t like shopping, there’s state of the art cinemas and bowling alleys as well as cafes and restaurants.

2. Saphan Thaksin River Pier

If your after culture and a look at the older, more traditional Bangkok but don’t want to get stuck on the small labyrinth-like streets to get there, then take the sky-train to the river at Saphan Thaksin. From here you’ve got traffic free access by river boat to all the historic sights such as Wat Phra Kaew (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha),  Wat Pho (The Temple of the reclining Buddha) and Wat Arun (The Dawn Temple.)   The river itself is a fascinating place, with boats of all sizes and purposes showing the heart of Bangkok daily life, and a simple ride on the ferry up and down the river is a great trip in itself.

3. Jatujak Weekend Market

A stark contrast to the air-conditioned malls of Siam, this is a must for all visitors to Bangkok. It is open every day but there is more going on at the weekends. Get off the sky-train at Morchit and follow the signs to reach the market. Even if you hate shopping this place is worth just for the sights, smells and sounds. Wander through the pet market, where you can buy anything from kittens to tarantulas or check out the arts section where local Thai artists exhibit their works of art. If you get tired, stop off at one of the many ‘hidden-gem’ cafes tucked away in the maze of alleys.

4. Lumpini Park and Night Bazaar

Change to the underground train for this one (connections at Asok, Sala Deng or Morchit sky-train stations) and ride to Lumpini in the evening to experience the delights of the night bazaar. As well as endless trinket shops, there is also the Joe Lois Theatre, home to a world renowned Thai puppet show telling stories from traditional Thai mythology.

5. Night Life at Ekamai

For the party animals, not many places rival the bars and clubs near Ekamai sky-train station. Put on your most trendy clothes and dance the night away in trendy, modern night clubs.

6. Patpong Night Market

Although mainly famous as a red-light district, this is THE place to come if you’re looking for designer clothes or sunglasses at bargain prices. There may be a few spelling mistakes in the designer’s names, but who cares when you can be wearing ‘Kevin Klein’ boxers for $3!

7. Best of the Rest

Still hungry for more? Here are a few more ideas for killing time on the sky-train network:
Shopping – More malls at Chidlom, Prom Phong and Rama IX(underground train.)
Culture – Erawan Shrine at Chidlom for live Thai dancing and music.
Entertainment – Cinemas at Ekamai, Siam, Prom Phong, Thailand Cultural Centre(underground train.)
Food – Middle Eastern food at Nana, All sorts at Siam, Food loft at Chidlom.

Bangkok at Night

Bangkok is an amazing place to visit. No other city in the world combines a modern, fast paced way of life with such a sense of spiritual harmony. It is both exciting and laid back at the same time and there truly is something for everyone, from luxury shopping malls to traditional Thai dancing, sometimes in the same place! Here is a list of 4 places that should not be missed by either the back-packer or the business visitor:

Golden Buildings at Wat Phra Keaw

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho:

The Grand Palace (Wat Phra Kaew) is undoubtedly the iconic temple of Thailand. It is a masterpiece of ornate, colourful structures with a deeply rooted spiritual atmosphere. It is home to one of the most revered Buddha images in Thailand – The Emerald Buddha. Although small, this statue is highly important in Thai Buddhism and many Thai people make the pilgrimage to see it every day. There is a mural surrounding the temple enclosure which tells the story of the Ramakien, a sacred Hindu story. One of the most impressive aspects of the temple are the five metre tall giants, which guard the gates. Don’t miss the palace museum which houses amongst other things the seasonal outfits for the emerald Buddha. Next door is Wat Pho, or the temple of the reclining Buddha. Home to one of the largest single Buddha statues in Thailand – a 46 metre long reclining statue, decorated with gold and mother of pearl. Wat Pho is also home to the most recognized school of traditional Thai massage and is a good place to relax after a hard days sight-seeing. Make sure you wear long trousers, proper shoes and cover your shoulders before visited either temple and DON’T listen to anyone outside telling you that it is closed, or offering guide services. Official guides are available from inside the complex and both temples are NEVER closed.

Shopping Heaven at Siam Paragon

Siam Square Shopping District:

Whether you love shopping or hate it with a passion, this part of Bangkok is a must. After a few days of sweltering sight-seeing, there is nothing better than stepping into the luxury of the air-conditioned Siam Paragon mall and sampling the modern, comfortable side of Bangkok. The shop-a-holics will find endless joy browsing the designer clothes stores while those less tolerant to the delights of shopping will still find plenty to do looking at the various exhibitions or checking out the super-car gallery on the third floor. The food court in the basement is an excellent place to get real Thai food for those not yet ready to brave the street food!

There are at present five gigantic shopping malls in walking distance from Siam square, and all of them offer something different. For the bargain hunter, it’s got to be MBK, which sells everything from mobile phones to novelty t-shirts, with almost all prices open to negotiation. For luxury brands, Siam Paragon and Siam Discovery are the best bets whereas if you are a young trendy type looking for something a bit unique try Siam Centre of the myriad of boutique stores in Siam Square. The recently refurbished Central World is also well worth a few hours for the vast selection of shops and dining options available.

After a busy days shopping and people watching, the perfect end to your ‘modern Bangkok’ day is a trip to the cinema. Movies are available in English and if you really want to splash out, go for the gold class tickets and enjoy the latest film in unparalleled comfort while fully reclined sipping your fruit cocktail!

The Backbone of Bangkok - The Chao Phraya

Chao Phraya River:

The Chao Phraya River is one of the defining aspects of Thailand, with around 35% of Thailand lying in it’s flood plains. It is this river which gives Thailand its fertile lands and it is seen by many Thai people as being a spiritual source of life. Most of the historically significant settlements of Thailand have been situated on the banks of this great river. A visit to the river will show that it is still a major part of everyday Thai life, with countless ferries, river taxis and rice barges jostling past each other while they go about their daily business. One of the best ways to see the river is by getting the standard ferry from any pier and just riding it up and down the river, taking in the sights and observing the river life. For those wanting a fuller river experience, river taxis are available to hire from any pier which will take you on a tour of both the river and some of the adjoining canals. Dinner cruises are also a very pleasant way to spend the warm Bangkok evenings while longer, day cruises going as far as the world heritage city Ayuthaya are also available. An alternative excursion on the river is Koh Kret, a small island where Thai life is still practiced in its most traditional form.

Something for Everyone - JJ Weekend Market

Chatuchak Weekend Market:

Another shopper’s paradise, a million miles away from the ultra modern Siam Square complex mentioned earlier. This weekend market is a labyrinth of market traders selling everything imaginable, from original Thai art to live chickens and pets. Even for the most uninterested shopper the sights and sounds of this place are marvel to behold. Buskers and street entertainers abound and delectable food and drink can be bought at every corner. Worried about space in your suitcase for all the bargains you find? Convenient booths will arrange shipping of all your purchases direct to your home anywhere in the world! Don’t forget to bargain!