Bangkok is a perfect example of a city which I know I should hate, especially as a lover of mountains and fresh air, but somehow, after getting over the warts on the surface, the soul of the City of Angels has won me over and there’s nowhere I’d rather be.

Here are four things about Bangkok which you should hate, but you just can’t help loving:

1. The Pavements (sidewalks)
   
   

   One of Bangkok's street elephants outside a restaurant. (Photo by Szymon Kochanski)

   Definitely not suitable for wheelchairs, Bangkok’s pavements are full of obstacles. Nowhere in the world will you have to watch out for massive holes deep enough to swallow a man, motorbikes taking a shortcut, whole families of stray dogs and fully grown elephants! Such obstacles should be frustrating, but in reality they are exciting and make you feel alive. Just watch where you step if you’re walking behind one of the 500 or so urban elephants! The pavements are also home to some of the best food in the world from street vendors and makeshift restaurants with plastic stools. In the evenings whole streets are turned into dense markets packed with people buying and selling all kinds of goods imaginable. If you’re trying to get somewhere it’s a nightmare, but if you’ve got time to take it all in, a simple walk down the street can be a truly unforgettable experience.

2. The Roads
   
   

   Bangkok Roads - Fast and Crazy but with Smiles all round!

   Driving in Bangkok is a test of brinkmanship. If you’re used to the polite, Western style of driving you might be better off closing your eyes when navigating the jammed streets of central Bangkok. The main style of driving here is ‘every car, motorcycle, bus and 22 wheeled truck  for itself.’  Buses never stop and instead just slow down, sometimes 3 or 4 lanes away from the pavement,  to let passengers on or off. Crossing the roads in Bangkok requires a special skill which those who remember the old computer game ‘Frogger’ will have mastered – wait for the gaps in the traffic to line themselves up, time it right then close your eyes and run! This may sound like a nightmare of stress and danger, but look closely and through the madness, the soul of Bangkok starts to make itself seen. Despite such conditions, road-rage is non-existent; the faces of the drivers are pictures of calm. Laughter and smiles are plentiful as crowds of people sprint across the road, narrowly escaping being injured by the 3 lanes of traffic.

3. Thai Time-keeping
   
   

   One of the few public clocks in Bangkok (Photo by Travelinman43 - Flickr)

   One thing you may notice as you walk around the metropolis of Bangkok, is an absence of clocks. In Western cities you only need to turn your head and you can see the time being proudly displayed. The main reason for this lack of time is that time is simply not that important here. It is quite common for Thai friends to be 2 or 3 hours late when meeting each other in shopping malls and Thai people rarely book more than a day or two in advance for anything. If you are taking part in any day organised by Thais don’t even bother asking for a schedule, and if you are lucky enough to get one don’t expect it to be any kind of indication of how the day will turn out. This is undoubtedly infuriating for time-obsessed Englishmen like myself, but after being broken down by many years of poor time-keeping, part of this approach to punctuality (though still not all) begins to make sense. By living your life less governed by time, there is a lot less to worry about and get stressed about. Getting stuck in a traffic jam isn’t such a problem. You don’t need to miss lunch if you’ve got somewhere to be, and if your 2 or 3 hours late for a party it’s no problem – you’ll still be there before most people!

4. Tuk-Tuks
   
   

   An Iconic Thai Tuk Tuk (Photo by Nokan)

   These three-wheeled, motorised chariots are an icon of Thailand, and a favourite of tourists. Their gurgling, 2-stroke engines give them their name and their drivers are almost always charming, charismatic chaps who claim that they are faster and cheaper than their four-wheeled, air conditioned counterparts. In reality, their lack of a meter and the fast-talking, ever-so-friendly man at the controls means they are always more expensive, and their insistence on taking you to everywhere in Bangkok except where you want to go means they take much longer. As frustrating an experience as it can be, however, I challenge anyone not to be grinning like a mischievous schoolboy as you race the wrong way down one-way streets towards yet another tailors or gem shop. Get in one knowing you’ll be taken in the wrong direction and charmed into buying an overpriced suit and you’ll have a great time!

Fly over the traffic in the Sky-train (photo by GAry.photography)

Everyone hates traffic, and there’s no traffic in the world as bad as in Bangkok. It is not unusual to spend an hour travelling just 20 – 30 metres in Bangkok’s evening rush hour and if you only have a day or two in Bangkok, the difference between enjoyment and frustration can be just a bad traffic jam.

Thankfully, there is a way round this time-wasting trip spoiler – the air-conditioned, clean Bangkok sky-train. It is both cheap and efficient and with good access to both shopping districts and tourist attractions, you need never risk getting ripped off by a tuk-tuk or taxi again. Here are a few nice little trips you can do without the need of taxis or buses.­

1. Siam Square Shopping District

If shopping’s your thing, there aren’t many places in the world better than the mega-malls around Siam sky-train station. For designer labels and luxury sports cars, try Siam Paragon or to find something a bit different and trendy, it’s got to be Siam Centre or the outdoor Siam Square. If bargain hunting is your thing then head, with your bartering hat, straight to MBK. Even if you don’t like shopping, there’s state of the art cinemas and bowling alleys as well as cafes and restaurants.

2. Saphan Thaksin River Pier

If your after culture and a look at the older, more traditional Bangkok but don’t want to get stuck on the small labyrinth-like streets to get there, then take the sky-train to the river at Saphan Thaksin. From here you’ve got traffic free access by river boat to all the historic sights such as Wat Phra Kaew (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha),  Wat Pho (The Temple of the reclining Buddha) and Wat Arun (The Dawn Temple.)   The river itself is a fascinating place, with boats of all sizes and purposes showing the heart of Bangkok daily life, and a simple ride on the ferry up and down the river is a great trip in itself.

3. Jatujak Weekend Market

A stark contrast to the air-conditioned malls of Siam, this is a must for all visitors to Bangkok. It is open every day but there is more going on at the weekends. Get off the sky-train at Morchit and follow the signs to reach the market. Even if you hate shopping this place is worth just for the sights, smells and sounds. Wander through the pet market, where you can buy anything from kittens to tarantulas or check out the arts section where local Thai artists exhibit their works of art. If you get tired, stop off at one of the many ‘hidden-gem’ cafes tucked away in the maze of alleys.

4. Lumpini Park and Night Bazaar

Change to the underground train for this one (connections at Asok, Sala Deng or Morchit sky-train stations) and ride to Lumpini in the evening to experience the delights of the night bazaar. As well as endless trinket shops, there is also the Joe Lois Theatre, home to a world renowned Thai puppet show telling stories from traditional Thai mythology.

5. Night Life at Ekamai

For the party animals, not many places rival the bars and clubs near Ekamai sky-train station. Put on your most trendy clothes and dance the night away in trendy, modern night clubs.

6. Patpong Night Market

Although mainly famous as a red-light district, this is THE place to come if you’re looking for designer clothes or sunglasses at bargain prices. There may be a few spelling mistakes in the designer’s names, but who cares when you can be wearing ‘Kevin Klein’ boxers for $3!

7. Best of the Rest

Still hungry for more? Here are a few more ideas for killing time on the sky-train network:
Shopping – More malls at Chidlom, Prom Phong and Rama IX(underground train.)
Culture – Erawan Shrine at Chidlom for live Thai dancing and music.
Entertainment – Cinemas at Ekamai, Siam, Prom Phong, Thailand Cultural Centre(underground train.)
Food – Middle Eastern food at Nana, All sorts at Siam, Food loft at Chidlom.

Thai Curry

Thailand is famous worldwide for its food and anyone who has sampled the delights of real Thai food will agree that it ranks amongst the most delicious cuisines in the world. Thai food is sometimes sweet, sometimes sour, sometimes salty but almost always spicy. Here is an overview of some of the types of food you will find on the Thai dinner table:

Curries Thai curries are quite thin and more like a soup than their Indian counterparts. They often contain coconut cream which gives them a sweet flavour but are usually spicy. The following are some examples of Thai curries:

• Green Curry (Geng Kiaow Waan) – A favourite amongst foreigners, this is a sweet, green coloured curry with a generous amount of coconut cream. It is usually served with chicken and a vegetable called ‘Makeuah’ which is similar to an egg-plant or aubergine and is often quite spicy.
• Red Curry (Geng Phed) – Similar to its green counterpart, this is also a popular dish with visitors to Thailand. It has a softer flavour than the green curry and is particularly delicious when made with duck and exotic fruits.
• Masuman Curry – Originating from Muslim culture, this curry is not as spicy as the green or red but is still quite sweet. It is also usually quite thick and is served with potato and chicken legs and is made from a peanut base.

Thai Curry

Stir-Fry Dishes The variety of Thai stir-fry dishes is almost endless, with each dish having countless variations. Here are a few of the more popular examples:

• Stir-Fried Chicken/Pork with Holy Basil – Be prepared as this one is often very spicy. It consists of ground pork or chicken simply stir-fried with holy basil. It is delicious when eaten with a fried egg, and is a popular quick lunch for people all over Thailand.
• Pad Thai – Pad Thai is one of the signature dishes of Thailand. Rice noodles are stir-fried with egg, bean sprouts, a special Pad Thai source and usually shrimp. It is eaten with ground peanuts, spring onion and flaked chilli and freshly squeezed lime.
• Hoy Tord – This is usually made at the same place as Pad Thai and is another signature dish of Thailand. Fresh mussels are fried with bean sprouts and batter to make a crispy seafood pancake type thing. It is usually eaten with chilli sauce.

Stir Fried Noodles

Salads Salads in Thailand are very different from the Western version, which are usually quite bland and full of greenery. Thai salads have an intensely sweet and sour dressing which is always spicy. There are many different varieties with many restaurants in Thailand selling just salads. There are two main types of salad – Papaya based salads and Yams:

• Som Tam (Papaya salad) – Famous for their potent spiciness, these are a right of passage for anyone who claims to like spicy food. They are made in a pestle and mortar by crushing unripe papaya, tomatoes, lime, garlic and a good handful of chillis. There are many different varieties of this classic dish including a salty crab version (Som Tam Bpuu).
• Yam – This is similar to a Som Tam but without the papaya. Common versions include Yam Talee (Seafood salad), Yam Wunsen (Glass noodle salad) and Yam Ma Praow (Young coconut salad)

Spicy Thai Salad

Soups Soups in Thailand are watery and often quite sour. They get their taste from ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal which can’t be eaten but infuse the soup with their flavour.

• Tom Yam Gung – The most famous of all Thai soups and the name of a popular Thai film, this is a sour thin soup which is often served with shrimp or seafood (Tom Yam Talee.) The soup is flavoured with lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, lime and chilli.
• Tom Kaa Gai – This is a sour soup made with chicken and coconut milk to give it a distinctive white colour. The flavour is dominated by galangal although it has got chilli and lemon grass contributing as well.
  

  Tom Kaa Gai

Bangkok at Night

Bangkok is an amazing place to visit. No other city in the world combines a modern, fast paced way of life with such a sense of spiritual harmony. It is both exciting and laid back at the same time and there truly is something for everyone, from luxury shopping malls to traditional Thai dancing, sometimes in the same place! Here is a list of 4 places that should not be missed by either the back-packer or the business visitor:

Golden Buildings at Wat Phra Keaw

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho:

The Grand Palace (Wat Phra Kaew) is undoubtedly the iconic temple of Thailand. It is a masterpiece of ornate, colourful structures with a deeply rooted spiritual atmosphere. It is home to one of the most revered Buddha images in Thailand – The Emerald Buddha. Although small, this statue is highly important in Thai Buddhism and many Thai people make the pilgrimage to see it every day. There is a mural surrounding the temple enclosure which tells the story of the Ramakien, a sacred Hindu story. One of the most impressive aspects of the temple are the five metre tall giants, which guard the gates. Don’t miss the palace museum which houses amongst other things the seasonal outfits for the emerald Buddha. Next door is Wat Pho, or the temple of the reclining Buddha. Home to one of the largest single Buddha statues in Thailand – a 46 metre long reclining statue, decorated with gold and mother of pearl. Wat Pho is also home to the most recognized school of traditional Thai massage and is a good place to relax after a hard days sight-seeing. Make sure you wear long trousers, proper shoes and cover your shoulders before visited either temple and DON’T listen to anyone outside telling you that it is closed, or offering guide services. Official guides are available from inside the complex and both temples are NEVER closed.

Shopping Heaven at Siam Paragon

Siam Square Shopping District:

Whether you love shopping or hate it with a passion, this part of Bangkok is a must. After a few days of sweltering sight-seeing, there is nothing better than stepping into the luxury of the air-conditioned Siam Paragon mall and sampling the modern, comfortable side of Bangkok. The shop-a-holics will find endless joy browsing the designer clothes stores while those less tolerant to the delights of shopping will still find plenty to do looking at the various exhibitions or checking out the super-car gallery on the third floor. The food court in the basement is an excellent place to get real Thai food for those not yet ready to brave the street food!

There are at present five gigantic shopping malls in walking distance from Siam square, and all of them offer something different. For the bargain hunter, it’s got to be MBK, which sells everything from mobile phones to novelty t-shirts, with almost all prices open to negotiation. For luxury brands, Siam Paragon and Siam Discovery are the best bets whereas if you are a young trendy type looking for something a bit unique try Siam Centre of the myriad of boutique stores in Siam Square. The recently refurbished Central World is also well worth a few hours for the vast selection of shops and dining options available.

After a busy days shopping and people watching, the perfect end to your ‘modern Bangkok’ day is a trip to the cinema. Movies are available in English and if you really want to splash out, go for the gold class tickets and enjoy the latest film in unparalleled comfort while fully reclined sipping your fruit cocktail!

The Backbone of Bangkok - The Chao Phraya

Chao Phraya River:

The Chao Phraya River is one of the defining aspects of Thailand, with around 35% of Thailand lying in it’s flood plains. It is this river which gives Thailand its fertile lands and it is seen by many Thai people as being a spiritual source of life. Most of the historically significant settlements of Thailand have been situated on the banks of this great river. A visit to the river will show that it is still a major part of everyday Thai life, with countless ferries, river taxis and rice barges jostling past each other while they go about their daily business. One of the best ways to see the river is by getting the standard ferry from any pier and just riding it up and down the river, taking in the sights and observing the river life. For those wanting a fuller river experience, river taxis are available to hire from any pier which will take you on a tour of both the river and some of the adjoining canals. Dinner cruises are also a very pleasant way to spend the warm Bangkok evenings while longer, day cruises going as far as the world heritage city Ayuthaya are also available. An alternative excursion on the river is Koh Kret, a small island where Thai life is still practiced in its most traditional form.

Something for Everyone - JJ Weekend Market

Chatuchak Weekend Market:

Another shopper’s paradise, a million miles away from the ultra modern Siam Square complex mentioned earlier. This weekend market is a labyrinth of market traders selling everything imaginable, from original Thai art to live chickens and pets. Even for the most uninterested shopper the sights and sounds of this place are marvel to behold. Buskers and street entertainers abound and delectable food and drink can be bought at every corner. Worried about space in your suitcase for all the bargains you find? Convenient booths will arrange shipping of all your purchases direct to your home anywhere in the world! Don’t forget to bargain!

Thailand is often called the land of smiles and any visit will prove this name to be just. Thai people are naturally very laid back and ‘sanuk’, meaning fun is an important part of life. Thailand is the only country is South East Asia which has never been colonized by a Western power and it is this which makes Thailand a place of spiritual mystery to the Western visitor. It is a country steeped in unique culture and traditions.

The Revered Thai Monarch

One of the most important aspects of Thai culture is the monarchy. The royal family has earned enormous respect from the Thai people and pictures and shrines paying homage to various members of the royal family align most streets and are present in almost all shops and houses. In 2006 and 2007, yellow shirts were worn by almost all Thai people on Mondays as a sign of respect in anticipation of the kings 60th year on the thrown in 2006 and his 80th birthday in 2007.

The Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho

Buddhism is the main religion with some 95% of people following the ways of Theravada Buddhism. This forms a major part of everyday life in Thailand and orange robed monks are a common site in any part of Thailand, from high-tech luxury malls to the most rural villages. Thailand also follows a Buddhist calendar and most Thai people and businesses use the Buddhist year of 2551. New Year is celebrated from the 13th to the 15th of April and the traditional ceremony involves pouring water over images of Buddha. Nowadays the festival is a time when the whole country erupts into a huge water fight, with people standing on the street with hosepipes and water guns waiting to soak passers by.

A Spirit House

Another important part of Thai culture is ghosts or spirits. All Thai people believe in spirits and most houses will have a small spirit house or ‘saan pra poom’ where Thai people will leave food and other offerings for the well-being of the departed. You will also see a lot of spirit houses around central Bangkok and Thai people will often wai in respect while passing. Fortune tellers hold a position of huge respect in Thailand and almost every major decision in Thai life must be taken with counsel from a fortune teller first, from the date for a wedding, to the location for a building. Most Thai people will make often visits to fortune tellers.

A Golden Statue Showing the 'Wai' pose.

The Thai way of greeting is the wai which involves placing the palms of ones hands together and bowing the head. The higher ones hands are held, the more respect is shown. This is an essential technique to master for anyone visiting Thailand and is used when saying hello or goodbye. Another major philosophy in Thai culture is that the head is the most sacred part of the body and the feet are the least sacred. It is considered extremely rude to touch a Thai persons head and even ruder to put your feet anywhere near anyone’s head. When the King travels by car, along with closing all the roads, the pedestrian bridges are also closed so that nobody’s feet will be above the King’s head and if a coin with the King’s head is dropped, it must be picked up immediately.